Boating to the Dreamy Isle of Capri
I have daydreamed of Capri. Cerulean blue waters, pastel buildings, brilliant hues of bougainvillea and windswept trees gracing the terraced landscape. The lemon-scent mingling with fragrant notes of wild rose and sea air. I could feel the gentle waves of the bay lapping against the boat. I am mesmerized.
You will be greeted with this picturesque scene at Marina Grande when you arrive by boat.
The Dreamy Isle of Capri
I have daydreamed of Capri. Cerulean blue waters, pastel buildings, brilliant hues of bougainvillea, and windswept trees gracing the terraced landscape. The lemon scent mingling with fragrant notes of wild rose and sea air. I could feel the gentle waves of the bay lapping against the boat. I am mesmerized.
You will be greeted with this picturesque scene at Marina Grande when you arrive by boat.
From here visit the beaches with flanked by colorful umbrellas, rent a boat to tour the island or stop in at one of the stylish cafes. When you are ready to see more of Capri, catch the funicular railway up the mountain to the soul of Capri and La Pizzetta.
Take in the breathtaking views, enjoy a Caprese salad at a trattoria with a view, shop the stylish boutiques and enjoy more of the European chic vibe of Capri. We took a bus up a very winding road to AnaCapri, high atop the island. In the warm July weather, we found there to be fewer tourists and more of a chill vibe in this area.
After lunch at a lovely café, we took a stroll through the statue-lined gardens at Villa San Michele.
The views from here are breathtaking.
Capri Style
Be sure to make time to grab a glass of Sancerre at Piazza Umberto, and enjoy some of the most stylish people-watching in the world. Celebrities mingle with chic Europeans in this destination. Rumor has it the night life in Capri is legendary. Ultra-luxe yachts line the harbor, especially in summer, from which the celebrities are known to come out only at night for dining and to party the night away.
The ironwork and decorative details of AnaCapri captured my eye.
Capri Vibes - 2016
Fitting in with the Capri crowd with our black and white filter. If ONLY that could work in real life on some days, right? ;) For our next visit to the Campania region of Italy we will plan to spend a few days on the magical Isle of Capri. Heavenly!
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Day Tripping on the Amalfi Coast [Amalfi + Ravello]
Our next destination was Ravello, three miles up the steep, winding road, high above the Amalfi Coast. Ravello is known for luxury hotels, spas and historic villas. It has a slower, more refined pace of life and has become a popular spot for romantic destination weddings. It’s common to see vacationing celebrities gracing the cafes and sunbeds.
The Amalfi Coast
The Amalfi Coast is famous for being one of the most scenic places in the world. The roadways of the Amalfi Coast, though incredibly picturesque, can also be treacherous. The center line is more of a suggestion than a rule, even around the many hairpin corners. We were shocked that the Vespa drivers actually ride in the lane facing oncoming traffic. They come at you, on your side of the white line, and fast! The streets are very narrow and sometimes cars have to back up, strategically, to allow other cars to pass. It's tricky. Though Scott skillfully pilots our rental car in many places in Europe, we thought better of it on this leg of the trip. The Amalfi Coast is most safely seen by boat, by public transport or from a car with a driver. Our choice for several legs of this trip was our wonderful hired driver, Davide, of Dreaming Amalfi Coast.
Our first stop was to visit the roadside fruit stand owned by Davide's friend, Salvatore. Lemons are part of the culture of Amalfi Coast. One variety, the cedri, is large and bumpy. You can see them in the basket on the right. They look more like grapefruit. We picked up some local spice packages from the entertaining Salvatore. I ended up wearing a chili pepper crown by the time we left. I also want to point out that Davide, our "new Italian friend", is very well-dressed and I'm a big fan of his blue suede shoes. Those Italians certainly know how to dress.
As you can see, the roadways are very, very narrow in places.
As we continued along the Amalfi Coast, we passed this terraced hotel, Il San Pietro di Positano, all dressed up in bougainvillea and vines. This is one of the iconic hotels of the area, originally designed to blend into the landscape. Magnifico!
The view back to Positano from the road to Amalfi.
The next stop on our day trip along the Amalfi coast was in the charming town of Amalfi and began with a tour of the Duomo di Sant'Andrea Apostolo.
While I waited for Scott to finish his explorations, I enjoyed soaking in the Italian culture at a corner café. Two opera singers burst into song for an impromptu concert, delighting the crowd.
I grew enamored with this adorable little fella. He played a mean game of peek-a-boo with me from his café chair. What a looker!!
Our next destination was Ravello, three miles up the steep, winding road, high above the Amalfi Coast. Ravello is known for luxury hotels, spas and historic villas. It has a slower, more refined pace of life and has become a popular spot for romantic destination weddings. It's common to see vacationing celebrities gracing the cafes and sunbeds. Jennifer Aniston was in town for a film festival and stayed here just a few days after our visit to Ravello.
Scott and I toured the picturesque Villa Rufolo with magnificent gardens and views to die for.
If you get to Ravello, take a few moments in the town square for catching some views, people watching, a limoncello spritzer and a snack.
We did not have time to visit Villa Cimbrone on this trip, but
I've heard the gardens and views are spectacular.
Contact me at Curated Travel to make your dream vacation in Italy come true!
Ciao!
Heather
Date Night: Dinner High on the Mountainside in Positano
Our new Italian friend and driver, Davide, recommended a family run trattoria for dinner “high on the mountainside” above Positano. He knew we would love it. We agreed and Davide made all the arrangements. A van filled with several other hungry diners picked us up in front of our hotel and traversed the terraced roadway up, up, up near the top of the mountain.
Our new Italian friend and driver, Davide, recommended a family run trattoria for dinner "high on the mountainside" above Positano. He knew we would love it. We agreed and Davide made all the arrangements. A van filled with several other hungry diners picked us up in front of our hotel and traversed the terraced roadway up, up, up near the top of the mountain.
La Tagliata is a family run establishment started by Don Luigi a charming, generous, hospitable man who was passionate about the land, growing his own produce and creating local dishes. He loved to entertain and feed family and friends around his table. Over time he developed a reputation for fine dishes and Trattoria La Tagliata was born.
According to the website early homemade specialties included:
"Tureens of pasta with beans and pork (cotiche), spaghetti with garlic and crushed chilli peppers, broccoli and homemade sausage, tripe and small delicacies".
We ambled along the stone walkways and we were warmly greeted by the family/staff who make you feel like you have arrived at home.
Ciao!!
The views from La Tagliata are stunning. It's a bit misty, but that is a view of the sea and a boat in the distance.
The menu is prix fixe, and we did not ask the price. After the meal, we feared we might be into it for $200, but it turned out to be an incredible value at 40 euros per person! House wines are of the "bottomless" glass variety and are included in the meal price.
Starting with the cheeses, bread, and antipasto platters; the courses just kept on coming with smooth and friendly precision by the staff.
Scott's notes from the evening include prosciutto, mozzarella, goat cheeses, antipasto, eggplant parmigiano, zucchini flower, charred spinach, broccoli, brown beans and garbanzo beans dishes. The pasta was Mama's secret large ravioli with basil. The meat plate included ribs, shish kabob, veal, chicken, sausages, lamb, rabbit, mixed salad and fried potatoes.
The homemade pasta dishes were simply amazing... Oh pasta, how I had missed you. I'm still not over my summer in Italy infatuation with you. #carbs
Scott is shaking his head at the amount of food being presented to us.
As you can imagine, by the time the dessert/fruit course (mixed fruits and 3 kinds of pastries)! and limoncello arrived, we were beyond stuffed.
Mama makes her entrance at La Tagliata
When Mama made her entrance, 7 courses in, she was met by a cheering crowd. She had been up cooking since 5 am, as usual. You may feel a bit tipsy from the amount of food and bottomless glasses of wine, but a driver awaits to carry you safely back down, down, down the mountainside to your sweet slumber.
If you find yourself in Positano I highly recommend La Tagliata as a must do dining experience. Tell them Davide and Heather sent you! ;)
Ciao!
Getaway to Positano on the Spectacular Amalfi Coast of Italy
Positano possesses a kind of magic that is difficult to put into words. It’s a kaleidoscope of shimmering light, pastel hues, vibrant bougainvillea, and the winding, terraced streets with pastel villas clinging to the mountainside. Boldly colored umbrellas bounce off the chameleon blue hues of the sea. At sunset, a rosy glow falls over the glassy sea and twinkling lights spark the views. Day or night, Positano is a place of pure magic.
Getaway to Positano
Positano possesses a kind of magic that is difficult to put into words. It's a kaleidoscope of shimmering light, pastel hues, vibrant bougainvillea, and the winding, terraced streets with pastel villas clinging to the mountainside. Boldly colored umbrellas bounce off the chameleon blue hues of the sea. At sunset, a rosy glow falls over the glassy sea and twinkling lights spark the views.
Day or night, Positano is a place of pure magic.
The Amalfi Coast
The Amalfi Coast has been on my travel bucket list for many years. Despite several visits to Italy, Scott and I had never made it this far south until July. It was definitely worth the wait! The rumored magic of the Amalfi Coast is all true.
Following a 3 1/2 hour drive, three flights and 30+ hours of travel, we arrived in Naples. Thankfully, our driver, Davide of Dreaming Amalfi Coast, was there to greet us. He ushered us into his luxury vehicle and entertained us with stories of Amalfi Coast and Italian life. Charming Davide stopped for us to take in some views of Sorrento and the entire Amalfi Coast, and offered us some limoncello ice from a roadside stand.
With travel fatigue and jet lag setting in, having comfortable lodging pre-booked is always important to us. As it turns out, the Alcione Residence was the perfect choice for our four-night stay. The intimate boutique hotel of 11 suites is charming and well-appointed with panoramic views of Positano from each balcony. The staff, Katia and Valentina, were incredibly kind and helpful. The location is right on Via Cristoforo Columbo and just two doors away from the famed Le Sirenuse Hotel. Boutiques and cafes are sprinkled along the street, and the bougainvillea covered path to the shopping streets and beach is nearby.
Our suite was beautifully appointed with authentic Italian furnishings, luxurious linens, and brightly colored hand-painted tiles. From wrought iron details to gilded mirrors, we were very pleased with our spotless and cheery suite.
The view from our terrace was captivating.
We stumbled across the street from the hotel on that first weary night. We didn't have to walk up or down the steep slope but simply across the street. We enjoyed the dishes and view so well at Ristorante L'Ancora that we ate here twice and enjoyed a nightcap on another evening.
At Residence Alcione a breakfast tray, with continental breakfast and more items of our choice, was delivered to our room each day for dining on the terrace.
Be prepared to walk and climb stairs in Positano. Comfortable shoes are a must! The streets are steep and winding.
There are many options of things to do in Positano--take in the views, enjoy a delicious meal at a café, shop the boutiques, tour Chiesa di Santa Maria, or catch a ferry or private boat to a number of destinations. If you are in the mood for water sports, they have it all at the beach. If you simply want to chill, you can take a break at a beachfront café. Steps away you can catch some sun or a swim at Spiaggia Grande beach or the smaller Spiaggia del Fornillo beach around the bend.
This is the view of the ornate dome of Chiesa di Santa Maria from the terrace of the famed hotel Le Sirenuse. This spot was a couple of doors down from our hotel and a luxurious spot to grab lunch or a glass of rose'.
Boutiques are plentiful, especially close to the beach, where cruise ships unload passengers anxious to collect souvenirs of Positano. The jewel encrusted sandals are very popular and one of my favorite souvenirs to bring home.
Scott and I beat the heat, and the crowds, by walking up Via Cristoforo Colombo one afternoon. We found a petite sidewalk cafe' to enjoy another fresh caprese salad.
I happened upon the enticing Profumi di Positano. After sampling a number of fragrances, I eventually selected Aova Avrea, a fragrance with the most significant lemon/limone notes, according to the charming owner who helped me. The Barba family started making their quality olive-oil based soaps in 1922 and launched their perfumes in 1965. The brand is now led by the fourth generation of the Barba family. I always enjoy taking home a fragrance, candle or soap when I travel. Smelling it later takes me back to that place in time.
The view from Marincanto. This is one of my favorite images, and hotel views, from our time in Positano.
Surely either terrace would work nicely for some sun and lounging. Don't you think?
If you've watched the first season of Giada in Italy, on the Food Network, you may recognize this area. The cooking show, featuring chef Giada De Laurentiis, was filmed just a short walk up from our hotel at Torre Sponda. Once we booked our trip to Positano, I rewatched several episodes of Giada's cooking show, just drooling over the scenery and the recipes, dreaming of our upcoming visit.
For more on Positano:
A Chic Afternoon at Le Sirenuse
Date Night: Dinner High Above Positano
Boating to the Dreamy Isle of Capri
Day Tripping on the Amalfi Coast [Amalfi and Ravello]
How to Make a Limoncello Spritzer
Here's to living la dolce vita!
Ciao! Heather